Method and product of shoe-construction



June 2a, 1938. M. MARASCO 2,122,041

METHOD AND PRODUCT OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 31, 1956 2Sheets-Sheet 1 A ITOENEY June 28, 1938 M. MARASCO METHOD AND PRODUCT 0FSHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Jan. 31, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN VEN TOP Marsha Marasco.

QE QW rangement, and combination of parts of the re- Patented June 28,1938 METHOD AND raonoor or Y smoonon SHOE-CON- Marshall Mai-mo,University at, Mo.

Application January 81, 1936, Serial No. 61,682

' 7 Claims. (01. 12-142) This invention relates generally to themanulecture or shoes and, more particularly to a method and product ofshoe-construction, reference being had to my co-pending applicationSerial No. 745,874, filed September 28, 1934, of which this presentapplication is a continuationin-part.

My invention has for its prime object the provision of a method ofshoe'manufacture, especially for the making of a shoe of the ocinentedor so-called compo type, in which an economy is effected in parts,material, and labor involved in the manufacture of the shoe, and in theprovision of a resulting shoe product which,

in an unique manner, is highly adapted to snugly and neatly engage andconform itself to the foot of the wearer.

And with the above and other objects in view, my invention resides inthe uniquemethod, and in the novel features of form, construction, ar-

sulting product of shoe-manufacture presently described and pointed outin 'the claims.

In the accompanying drawings (two sheets) Figure 1 is an invertedperspective view of a shoe-structure embodying my invention, mounted ona lasti re aration for the first ste of n p p p my applied at the heel,which most conveniently method of shoe-construction;

Figure 2 isa similar view, representing an intermediate stage of theshoe-construction;

Figure 3 is likewise a similar view. showing the shoe-structure inreadiness to receive the sole of the shoe, the latter being shown ininverted perspectiveflin parted relationship to the shoestruc'turejflf'l Figure 4' is a sectional view through the instep of the last and itsenveloping shoe-structure, the view corresponding approximately to thestage of manufacture shown in Figure 2;

Figure 5 is a similar view, showing a stage of the process succeedingthat of the stage of I Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a sectional view through the instep of the last and itssupported shoe-structure'as appearing after the outer sole is applied;and

Figure 7 is a similar sectional view taken through the ball of the lastand shoe-structure.

Briefly, my new method of shoe construction consists in providing, in anassembly of shoematerial to be made into a finished shoe, and as a partof the other elements of the shoe-structure, a lining having itsopposing lower side margins respectively widened or increased in widthat the shank, each for extending substantially across and to theopposite side of the shank'of the finof the lining material. [itsdoubler, if one is used) has its respective ished shoe, so that theshank of the shoe is constructed of transversely? over-lapping pliesLikewise, the upper, (and lower side margins widened or increased inwidth 5 so that the edges of said upper margins abut at the center line,and under the arch, of 'the finished shoe.

respective bottom margins of the lining and the 15 upp r, and the twoare side-lasted for marginally bounding the ball of, and are alsotemporarily tacked to, the last, with the lining in non-adherentrelation to the last, and the lower edge of the upper in adherentrelation to the lower- 20 edge of the lining.

Next, the lining and upper at the toe are cemented together, and at theheel also, the lining,

counter, and upper are cemented together, and

the shoe-material at both the toe and the heel is 5 fitted on the last,temporary holding tacks being applied at the toe, and permanent tacksbeing may be done by means of a bed-lasting machine.

Then the widened marginal portion of the respective sides of thelining'is, by hand or machine and while the shoe-structure is in thegrip of the bed-lasting machine, side-lasted along the shank by firststretching one side margin of the lining over the shank of the last innon-adherent relation thereto, then applying a very rapidly dryingadhesive to the exposed surface of said margin, and then stretching theother side margin of the lining over the first mentioned margin, suchtwo marginal portions of the lining then becoming 40 quickly firmlyadherent one to the other.

As the next step, the upper is side-lasted at both sides of the shoe, sothat the edges of the widened lower side margins of' the upper abutapproximately at the center-line of the shank of the shoe, a suitableadhesive or cement being app ied between theexposed surface of the outeroverlapping lining margin and the respective upper side margins, whichare then temporarily tacked through the lining to the last pending thehardening of the cement or adhesive.

Meanwhile, I have provided an outer sole characterized by having aninterior raised face for presenting to the ball of the foot of thewearer of the finished shoe a surface flush with the admounted on theshank portion of the shoebottom,

the temporary tacks are removed and the sole applied, preferably withthe aid of a. suitable machine, to the shoe material, a suitableadhesive being disposed between the upper and the sole for unify ng thesame into a strong and sturdy shoestructure. V

I'hereaften the shoe is finished in the usual manner, well known tothose skilled in the art and not deemed necessary of furtherelaboration.

Referring now more in detail and by reference characters to thedrawings, which illustrate one embodiment of my invention, I provide, asa part of the shoe-structure, a lining A, which in its general contourwill, of course, be suitable for the style and size of the shoe to beconstructed, but in one particular will, so far as I am aware, departfrom the conventional construction in the respect that, in patterningthe lining, each side of the' lining A is fashioned or 'cut with anincreased width, forming shank lining flaps I, I', for extendingsubstantially across and to the opposite side of the shank of thefinished shoe.

Likewise, the upper B of the shoe-structure, (and its doubler, if one isused), is patterned with an increased width opposite the shank of theshoe, so that each side of the upper forms an upper-shank flap 2, 2', asit may be said, which will so extend across the shank of the finishedshoe that the opposing edge 3, 3, of each uppershank flap 2, 2, will bein approximate meeting juxtaposition at the center line of the shank.

In the usual manner, the lining A and upper B are mounted on and pulledover the appropriate last C, together with the customary counter Ddisposed around the heel 4 of the last between the lining A and upper B,the last C, prior to such operation, having had a heel-piece 5temporarily positioned on theheel 4 of the last, as by a suitablesecuring member or tack 6.

With the shoe-structure so disposed on the last C, it will be seen thatthe bottom heel-enveloping margin I of the lining A, and the similarmargin 8 of the upper B, extend substantially beyond the heel 4 of thelast C; likewise, the bottom side margin 9 of the lining A, and thebottom side margin I0 of the upper B, extend substantially beyond theball I I and toe I2 of the last C; while the lining fiaps I, I, andupper fiaps 2, 2', extend from the shank I3 of the last C, as best seenin Figure 1.

Then, in accordance with my method of shoeconstruction, asuitableadhesive or cement I4 is applied to and, it may be especiallypointed out, only between, the side margin 9 of the lining A and theside margin II] of the upper B, and the two are 'then, preferably bymeans of a side-lasting machine, side-lasted over the ball II of thelast and temporarily tacked thereto as by suitable'fastening elements ortacks I5, as best seen in Figure 2.

Next, a suitable adhesive is applied between the lining A and upper B atthe toe I2 of the shoe,

and likewise adhesive material is applied in the the last C during theoperation of the bed-lasting machine, as will be understood by thoseskilled in the shoe-making art, and as best seen in Figure 2.

Then, most conveniently while the shoe-structure is in the grip of thebed-lasting machine, the lining flaps I, I, are side-lasted over theshank I3 of the last C. This is preferably, though not necessarily,accomplished by hand and is carried out by first drawing one of theflaps, as I, snugly over and across the shank I3 of the last, so thatthe free edge of the flap I resides substantially at the opposite sideof the shank I3.

Still firmly holding the fiap I in place, a rapidly drying adhesive orcement I8 is applied to the exposed face of the flap I, and the otherflap I' is quickly drawn in overlapping relationship onto the flap I theadhesive I8 being selected of such nature that but a very smallintervalof time is required for the-flaps I,. I. to become firmlyandsecurely adherent to each other, the shoe-structure at the shank thenappearing as best seen in Figure 4.

As the next step, a suitable adhesive, as [9, is applied to the upperflaps 2, 2', and the same are respectively side-lasted over the exposedlining flap I', so that the respective -edges 3, 3', of the flaps 2, 2',meet or substantially abut at the center line of the shank of the shoe,temporarily holding tacks 20 being also applied, as will be understoodfrom Figures 2 and 5.

However, it will be understood that it may sometimes be found desirableto pull the lining and upper-flaps over the shank after theshoestructure is taken from the bed-lasting machine, and this may bereadily done, if such departure from the foregoing procedure will bestserve the intended purpose.

After the shoe-structure is removed from the Meanwhile, I have providedan outer sole E for the shoe. The sole E has the usual heel-flap 23 atits heel 24 and is given a bevel skiving 25 along the sides of theheel-portion 24 and shank 26 substantially to a point adjacent theforward end of the shank region, as is customary in the art.

However, the sole E departs from customary practice, so far as I amaware, in that .the sole E, around the ball'2'l and toe 28 thereof, isskived to form a marginal flange 29 for attachment to the margin 9 ofthe upper B, the depth of the skiving being substantially equal to thethickness of the cemented margins 9, III, of the lining A and upper B,respectively, for providing a raised face or integral filler 30 having aheight for neatly fitting into the recess 3| which exists between theedges of the margins 9, I0, and the exposed ball portion II of the lastC, as best seen in Figures 3 and 7.

The sole E is now applied to the shoe-structure with the aid of asuitable adhesive, this work being done preferably by means of asuitable machine, which presses the sole E firmly onto theshoe-structure, the skived margins 25 of the sole neatly engaging theheel margin 8 and instep struction eifectuates a substantial economy inthe flaps 2, 2', of the upper B, and so as also to cover and enclose theshank stiffener II in a sightly i seen in Figure 7.

The shoe is then finished in the usual manner according to suchrequirements as may best serve the purpose, which are not here deemednecessary of further description.

Several economies and improvements in the I shoe-manufacture areeifectuated by employing process, the temporary tacks are removed forsubsequentiy permitting the application of the outer sole of the shoe,the relatively stiff lining, caused to be firmly adherent to the upperby the set of the cement, will so stiffen and reinforce the wholemarginal material, which overlaps the sides of the I ball of the shoe,as to substantially retain the same in snugly fitting or huggingrelationshipmn and with the last.

In this manner, I avoid the need of an inner sole, which iswholly absentin my improved shoe, and it will be understood, therefore, that no ad-'hesive is applied to the inner face of the lining, the last being whollynaked and bare, except, of course, for the heel-piece 5.

An economy is thus effected by the elimination of the cost of thematerial required for an inner sole, as well as the cost of performingthe extra step of incorporating an inner sole in the shoe.

The resulting shoe construction is possessed of ,a number of importantand unique features and Thus, by the unique construction of the shank Iof the shoe, the usual filler is eliminated, its

place being taken by the overlapping plies of the lining material, whichnot only effects an additional economy in the cost of the shoe, but,most importantly, the adherent overlapping plies of the lining stiilenand reinforce the shoe at its instep and provide a smoothly fittingpliable cradle, as it may be said, for snugly and supportingly engagingand readily conforming to the instep of the wearer of the shoe, as willbe understood from Figure 6.

Again, a high degree of comfort in the wear of the shoe is effected bythe unique construction at the ball of the shoe. As will be seen fromFigure 7, the elimination of an inner sole from the shoe and theprovision of the filler 30 on the sole E of the shoe present to the ballof the foot of the wearer of the shoe a surface which smoothly mergesinto the side walls of the upper, so that the upper is thus adapted toneatly and effectively conform itself to, and most comfortably engageand support, the foot of the wearer of the shoe.

Thus, as will be seen, my method of shoe-concost of manufacture of theshoe and provides a shoe-product possessed of strong and sturdycharacteristics highly conducive to the pleasurable wear of the shoe.

It will be understood that changes and modifications in the particularsof the several steps of manufacture, and in the form, construction,arrangement, and combination of the several parts of the finished shoemay be made and substituted for those herein shown and described withoutdeparting from the nature and principle of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent is,-

1. Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe which consist in firstproviding an upper-structure including a lining having its respectivelower side margins widened at the shank, then mounting theupper-structure on a last, then laying one margin over the shank of thelast in non-adherent relation thereto, and then laying the other marginover the first mentioned margin in adherent relation thereto.

2. Those steps in the manufacture of a shoe which consist in firstproviding an upper structure including a lining having its respectivelower side margins widened at the shank, then mounting theupper-structure on a last, then laying one margin over the shank of thelast in non-adherent relation thereto, then applying an adhesive to theexposed surface thereof, and then laying the other margin over the firstmentioned margin in adherent relation thereto.

3. In, a shoe, a lining having opposed side margins widened at the shankand extending in overlapping relationship substantially from one side tothe other of the shank of the shoe, an upper whose opposed lower marginssubstantially abut centrally of the shank, and an outer sole fixed tothe upper and concealing the said abutting margins thereof.

4. In a shoe, a lining having oposed side margins widened at the shankand extending in overlapping, relationship substantially from one sideto the other of the shank of the shoe, an upper whose opposed lowermargins substantially abut centrally of the shank, an outer sole fixedto the upper, and a shank-stiffener disposed intermediate the abuttingmargins of the upper and said outer sole.

5. The method of making a shoe comprising the steps of providing uppermaterials including an upper and a lining, said lining having itsrespective lower side margins widened at the shank, mounting the uppermaterials on a last, laying one margin over the instep of the last innon-adherent relation thereto, laying the other margin over the firstmentioned margin in adherent relation thereto, bringing and securing thelower margins of the upper across the shank portion into flatwiserespective abutting relationship, and positioning and securing a shankstiffener longitudinally of the shank in superposed relationship to theline of abutment between the margins of the upper.

6. A shoe comprising an upper and lining lasted into shoe-forming shape,said upper and lining being cemented together and turned inwardly alongtheir lower margins thereby providing a stiffened sole-engaging flangemarginally bounding the forepart of the shoe, said flange beinglaterally widened on both sides of the shoe along the shank portionthereof for extending in overlapping relationship transversely acrosssaid shank and thereby providing a sole-receiving opening in theforepart of the shoe completely bounded by the margin of said flange,and an outer sole secured to the upper and having its upper surfacemarginally reduced at the top surface of its forepart thereby providingan upstanding portion shaped to flt within said solereceiving opening insnug fitting abutment with the margin of the upper flange.

7. A shoe comprising an upper and lining lasted into shoe-forming shape,said upper and lining being cemented together and turned inwardly alongtheir lower margins thereby providing a stifiened sole-engaging flangemarginally bounding theiorepart of the shoe, said flange being laterallywidened on both sides of the shoe along the shank portion thereof forextending in overlapping relationship transversely across said shank andthereby providing a sole-receiving opening in the forepart of the shoecompletely bounded by the margin of said flange, and an outer solesecured to the upper and having its upper surface marginally reduced atthe top surface of its forepart thereby providing an upstanding portionshaped to fit within said solereceiving opening in snug fitting abutmentwith the margin of the upper flange, said upstanding portion along itsupwardly presented flat face being flush with the upwardly presentedface of the upper flange.

MARSHALL MARASCO.

